LP Tank Safety Tips

Trailer or camper LP tank in the last few years, you've no doubt learned you need the (not so) new tank valve, an OPD valve, or "overfill protection device." The theory here is that a little device on the valve will prevent the container from being filled more than 80% full, allowing for vapor expansion in the tank. We say theory, because many LP dealers tell us that it doesn't always work that way. Hence, whenever your LP dealer refills your bottle he should open a small "20% valve" which will spit forth liquid LP when the tank has reached its safe filling point. A safe fill means STOP filling at that point. Overfilled LP tanks are risky.

DOT tanks (the kind found on trailers and campers) are initially certified for 12 years from date of manufacture. After those years, they should be inspected and recertified, usually for 5-year intervals. Most LP dealers can do the inspection and "recert," and it doesn't cost a lot of money--some even do it for free. In many localities, if your tank is "out of date," a legitimate dealer won't refill you.

Pay attention to tank position when transporting it or having it filled. If your tank sits vertically in use, it should be transported and filled in that position. If it's a horizontal tank, common in truck campers, then transport and fill only horizontally. That can be a problem with rookie LP filling station attendants--they think all tanks should be filled vertically, and you may need to educate them--in strong terms. OPD tanks don't need to have a plug screwed into the valve mouth while transporting, but putting the dust cap on isn't a bad idea.

When you get your tank home and go to hook it back into the LP system you'll find either a "POL" style fitting on the end of your rig's "pigtail," or one of the new "Acme" fittings. POL fittings are common on older rigs and require a 7/8" wrench to put in. This is a LEFT hand thread fitting that screws into the tank valve, while the Acme fitting is a right hand thread that screws on OVER the tank valve, and is done by hand. The new OPD valves will accept either fitting. When tightening a POL fitting, take care not to over tighten, use your wrench yes, but don't go beyond "just snug." There's an internal rubber seal in the mouth of the valve which over tightening will tear up and eventually cause a leak. In some valves these can be replaced, but in others, a leak will require a whole new OPD valve.

And a note on those Acme fittings: Reports from some RV dealers indicate that the Acme fittings may wear out quicker than the old POL fittings. It may be RVers are just over-torquing them, so go gentle. We know one dealer won't sell the Acme pigtails, but instead offers the old-style POL fitting equipped with a "hand wheel" that allows you to hook up without a wrench. He swears it's a great improvement over Acme.

Photo: "Three sided" OPD valve is a giveaway that your tank meets new valve directive.

An Open and Shut Case for Roof Vent Maintenance

While it may not seem such a critical item in winter, keeping your roof vents clean and fully operational is an RVers "good thing." In winter, particularly in damp climates, keeping the roof vent cracked just a tad will help ventilate moisture from cooking and breathing. The results are a better living environment and less weeping on the walls.

Roof vent covers and screens are prone to dust collection, and those in the bathroom often pile up mold or mildew--harmful to folks with lung ailments. Cleaning them is usually a pretty simple matter of removing the crank and a couple of screws holding the screen in place. Clean the lids with a non-abrasive household cleaner and a soft cloth. Screens can be scrubbed up in the sink with a soft bristle brush, warm water, and dish soap. A toothbrush may be just the ticket, but skip the "Gleem." That toothbrush might be called on for hitting skinny corners and tracks around the vent lid itself, too.

While you're at it, take a good look at the gasket around the roof vent. If it's come loose, first try to reseat it; if it pops back up you may need to tack it back in place with a good glue, appropriate for use with rubber.

Tire Pressures: Fuel Economy & Safety

One of the simplest and yet most critical RV maintenance issues is that of checking tire pressure. With fuel prices plenty high, we all can stand to see less of the fuel pump. By keeping your RV and tow vehicle tires inflated properly, you can gain as much as a whopping mile per gallon in fuel economy.

But a lot more is at stake: Under-inflation is a leading cause of RV tire failure. An under-inflated tire is a tire that will run hot. Running hot leads to dramatic expansion, and sidewall blowouts often results. Tires are expensive, but losing control and blasting Mo-Mo the Motorhome into oncoming traffic can just ruin your whole day.

What's the Proper Inflation Level? First check your rig owner manual--it will show the specific recommended tires and their inflation rates. Lacking that, read the data stamped on the sidewall of the tire.

How to Check Tire Pressure: Get a good tire gauge. Experts recommend the "dial" type gauge (pictured) as they're more reliable than the shirt-pocket-stick gauge. You can expect to pay a few dollars more, but the price is worth it.

Check your pressure with the tires COLD--that is, several hours after they were last driven on. Driving as little as a couple of miles can lead to erroneous readings. Read the tire pressure for each tire, and compare it to the recommended pressure. Write down the specific tire, and the difference between the actual pressure and the recommended pressure. For example, the reading in our picture shows 64 pounds. The recommended pressure for this tire is 80 pounds, so the tire is 16 pounds low. So, in our case, we'd write down the specific tire, and that it needs 16 more pounds.

Now drive to wherever you obtain air, and using your gauge, check the tire pressure again. Most likely it will read higher than when you started out. ADD the precise number of pounds each tire was low--even if this might appear to "over pressure" the tire. Tire readings are all based on "cold pressure" and allowances are made for road heat. NEVER deflate a hot tire to bring the pressure down "to what it should be," just test them COLD and adjust as needed.

Low Tech RV--for the RV Do-It-Yourselfer

For the new RVer, it doesn't take long to find out you'll be wearing a lot of "hats." Navigator, map reader, and soon enough, RV technician. Not everyone has the talent for major overhauls, but there are plenty of "low tech" maintenance and repairs that are relatively simple. If you can twist a screwdriver, point a flashlight, and maybe learn a few new skills, you can save yourself plenty of money, time, and frustration. And along the way, you'll find a lot of satisfaction in being able to do it yourself.

We'll make this blog informative, useful, and hopefully we'll add enough levity to keep you coming back for more. Welcome to Low Tech RVing!

Russ and Tiña DeMaris