Prevent High Water Pressure From Ruining Your RV Plumbing
According to Murphy’s Laws of RVing, when a rupture occurs it’s usually in the most inconvenient and inaccessible place on your coach. The part to fix the leak costs less than $10.00 but the labor is somewhere around $400.00 if you’re lucky. There are some simple things you can do to prevent this kind of damage to your RV plumbing. Many RVs already have an internal water pressure valve installed near the city water entry point. Check you owners manual to see if you have this device already installed. If you don’t have one or aren’t sure, you can install your own water pressure regulator. You can purchase one at an RV store or you can make your own.
Home Depot carries a ¾ inch adjustable water regulator.
You will need to purchase garden hose adaptors to attach at each end of the regulator.
Use a water pressure gauge to measure the pressure going into the coach and adjust it so you will achieve the best possible water pressure for your individual unit.
(Note: Pressure adjustments will vary depending on the type of plumbing and fixtures you have in your coach.) Sometimes water pressure is affected by a plugged screen or a plugged water filter so be sure to check that these items are clear of debris when you adjust your regulator. JimLabels: Plumbing




6 Comments:
Put your water pressure regulator, adjustable or not, at the hydrant. Putting it there keeps the pressure in the hose at a more reasonable rate and it will last longer
By
John & Barbara Thompson, at July 4, 2007 2:52:00 PM PDT
One hot summer day I happened to leave a hose connected to the hydrant, on, with a shut off nozzle on the far end. After baking in the hot summer sun all day the hose ruptured.
My lesson: you might save a hose by placing the RV regulator on the hydrant, but you chance developing high pressures in your plumbing from the hose sitting in the hot sun.
John
By
Anonymous, at July 14, 2007 4:15:00 AM PDT
I learned the hard way to put the regulator at the hydrant. I was putting it at the input of the rig and it caused the hose to spring a leak at the connection due to the pressure between the hydrant and the rig. Good words of advice...
By
Anonymous, at July 14, 2007 8:10:00 AM PDT
Based on the information stated here, would it be practical (or possible) to put a Pressure Regulator at both the Hydrant as well as the entry point into the rig?
A while back, I was given some good advise by a fellow RV'er who warned me to "turn off the water supply (at the Hydrant) whenever we leave the rig for any length of time". His advise came from his expierience of returning to a flooded rig.
Rocco
By
Anonymous, at July 14, 2007 11:21:00 AM PDT
As mentioned, regulator at the faucet. I also use a Y connector like in the third picture. There are some camp grounds I go to that I want to pull in instead of backing in and I connect to my nieghbors water supply and with the Y connector it works just fine. I also use quick disconnects on all my water connectors, much easier to use than the twisting hose connector. Along with the Y connector, quick disconnects I have the little shut off adaptors on the end of my water supply hose to my rig. I connect the Y, regulator, hose(with quick disconnect) hose with the shutoff, quck disconnect(this is the end that will be connected to the RV.)I turn everything on and before I connect the hose to the rig, run water through the hose to clean it out, shut it off, connect, turn it on and ready to go. Just a little note about the quick disconnect, there are some that have the little check valve inside of them, that will restrict your flow of water, so I just punch that out and it works fine.
By
E_D, at July 14, 2007 7:37:00 PM PDT
We have a permanent reducer at the rv end and put another one at the beginning of hose end.
We have no pressure drop using both as they are both calibrated to the same 40-50 psi.
We always shut off the water at the fill point (bib) when we leave the rig for any length of time.
Bob
By
Anonymous, at July 17, 2007 7:27:00 PM PDT
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