Extra sewer hose storage need not be complicated
It doesn't take long into your RV carrer to recognize the importance (necessity) of carrying an extra length of sewer hose. You can pick up a fancy PVC container tube with easy twist on/off caps at your local RV store, or you can make your own. 
Since the standard sewer hose is three inches wide you should use a four inch wide PVC pipe. I recommend you run it the entire width of your RV and secure it with plumbers tape and screws. You can purchase threaded end caps and glue them onto the pipe with PVC glue and use a threaded cap to hold the hose securely inside the tube. If you want to leave adapters on the end of the sewer hose, you'll need a larger diameter PVC pipe. 
The larger the PVC pipe the more costly the fittings, so you may want to consider this simple application that uses a long bolt and a wing nut to keep the hose in place. Since this is your extra sewer hose, it doesn't really matter how fast you can access it because you won't be needing it very often. The open nature of this set-up allows the hose to dry and prevents mold and mildew from growing on the hose or inside the container. Helping you extend your RV fun - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing
RVers Guide to Dump Stations
There is one thing that all RVers need, and that's a dump station. A dump station, if you don't already know, is a place where you can empty your RV's holding tanks. This directory offers a comprehensive listing by state and by highway of most of the known public dump stations in America — more than 2,000 all together.... learn more.
Since the standard sewer hose is three inches wide you should use a four inch wide PVC pipe. I recommend you run it the entire width of your RV and secure it with plumbers tape and screws. You can purchase threaded end caps and glue them onto the pipe with PVC glue and use a threaded cap to hold the hose securely inside the tube. If you want to leave adapters on the end of the sewer hose, you'll need a larger diameter PVC pipe. 
The larger the PVC pipe the more costly the fittings, so you may want to consider this simple application that uses a long bolt and a wing nut to keep the hose in place. Since this is your extra sewer hose, it doesn't really matter how fast you can access it because you won't be needing it very often. The open nature of this set-up allows the hose to dry and prevents mold and mildew from growing on the hose or inside the container. Helping you extend your RV fun - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVingRVers Guide to Dump StationsThere is one thing that all RVers need, and that's a dump station. A dump station, if you don't already know, is a place where you can empty your RV's holding tanks. This directory offers a comprehensive listing by state and by highway of most of the known public dump stations in America — more than 2,000 all together.... learn more.
Labels: Plumbing
posted by Jim Twamley at
8/09/2008 07:30:00 PM
6 Comments:
Hi Prof!
Can I ask a question (or make a request) through here?
I'm noticing the shower drain in our RV is clogged and drains slow. I tried popping out the trap and cleaning the hair and other debris inside but this is only a temporary fix. I'm wondering if there are solutions (both liquid and physical) to this dilemma. I don't want to pour anything in there that's not safe for the RV.
I also tried to look for a "contact me" link or a "search posts" function in your site and couldn't find any, so unless I am totally needing more coffee this morning, I think that would be a useful idea!
Thanks for all your help, and keep up the great work!
Rikki - Traveling12Feet.com
By
Rikki, at August 11, 2008 8:35:00 AM PDT
Rikki, this is the best way to contact me and it helps other folks who may have the same problem. As far as your drain is concerned it is most certainly plugged up with the typical hair wads that seem to only happen in drain pipes :)
I don't recommend putting any commercial chemicals down your pipes. The best way to remove a hair wad is to use a small snake. You can purchase one for around $25 at Home Depot. It has a hand held crank and housing that holds the coiled snake (which is a long tight spring).
Here is the procedure: Find the access point of your drain (usually a panel under the shower). Remove the access panel and remove the "P" trap. You will usually see the beginnings of the hair wad in the pipe leading away from the "P" trap. Run the snake into that pipe and pull out all the gunk. The snake will come with directions on how to use it.
Reassemble the "P" trap and test it making sure it drains properly and there are no leaks. Simple to do but a little messy. Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing
By
Jim Twamley, at August 11, 2008 10:44:00 PM PDT
Thanks so much for your reply!
(the reason i asked if theres a "search" function is i didn't want to ask a question or raise a topic that has already been discussed in the past)
its good to know i can fix the problem easily and with no chemicals. for now i will stick with taking the hair trap off the shower floor and picking the debris with some sort of long nose or pliers. if it gets worse, i'll look for the p trap... Thanks again!
By
Rikki, at August 12, 2008 10:25:00 AM PDT
It looks fine but if you get a red squirrel deciding to make a home in the hose you have a destroyed hose. We drill small holes in the end cap and it keeps the squirrels out. PJB
By
Anonymous, at August 23, 2008 8:39:00 AM PDT
PJB,
I found out the hard way that with the smaller holes, it sets the conditions for things that like the dark to build their homes. thats why I also use this type of setup. With the wide open holes it allows more air and light in and makes it a less hospitable living area than with the small holes.
Something to dwell on.
By
Anonymous, at August 23, 2008 12:14:00 PM PDT
I agree with end caps and small holes drilled. I once had a birds nest with eggs in the hose! End screw cap fittings are not expensive.
By
Anonymous, at August 23, 2008 3:36:00 PM PDT
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