A brilliant RV idea illuminates the night

What do you do with that external outdoor electric plug on your RV? RVer Tom Lowary from Chatham, Illinois got together with his buddy Bill Moritz and came up with a new twist on outdoor lighting. They used a white five gallon bucket to make a durable all weather light. Tom says this is a multipurpose implement because he also uses the bucket to wash his rig. Since it’s lightweight and subject to blowing over, you can use rocks inside the bucket to weight it down.

You can use the parts from an old lamp or pick up the light fixture from a hardware store. Tom drilled a hole in the center of the bucket lid and used washers to help hold the fixture in place when he tightened the retaining bolt. He applied silicone to the top where the cord extends out of the lid. The 60 watt bulb floods your RV patio area with warm light making your nighttime activities more enjoyable and safe.If you are an artist you can use translucent colors (like permanent markers) to make designs on the bucket giving it a personal touch. Lighting up your world with great RV ideas - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

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The RV Doctor, Gary Bunzer, shows you how to maintain and care for your RV. This 63-minute DVD was produced in cooperation with the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association. This production walks the RVer through the proper procedures that are easily handled by the astute RV handyperson. Learn more or order.

Sparks Fly When RV Electric Cords Get Stuck

RVs are connected to the electric grid by a long insulated power cord. These power cords have either 50 amp (four prong) or 30 amp (three prong) connectors at the end that attaches to the electric box at the camp site. Frequently these prongs become worn out because of having to pull and twist and wiggle and fight to get them out. This is especially true of the “pigtail” extensions. Ken Wilton the owner of Coil n’ Wrap has a product called “Plug Dogs” that will solve this problem permanently. Plug Dogs have strong easy to grip handles that allow you to comfortably and easily pull apart your 50 or 30 amp connections. You may have met Ken and his wife Judy as they demonstrate their many innovative products at RV shows all over the country. It’s very frustrating trying to separate a pigtail from a 50 amp cord. I’m not kidding, sometimes I think the super glue fairy came by and welded my pigtail to my 50 amp cord during the night. Plug Dogs have strong easy to grip handles that allow you to comfortably and easily pull apart your 50 or 30 amp connections. Place one 50 amp Plug Dog on the 50 amp male connector, one 50 amp on the 50 amp female end of the pigtail one 30 amp on the end of the 30 amp male connector. Now you can easily remove all your electric connections without a hassle! You can read more about this product here Plug Dog. Helping you stay connected to your sanity while easily disconnecting from your electric box - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Add A Generator To Your 5th Wheel or Travel Trailer

RVer Jim Fifer installed this “Juice Box” generator on the back of his 5th wheel. This generator is made by Onan a trusted name in the industry. The generator platform inserts into a receiver hitch so it rides neatly tucked away on the rear of the RV. Jim’s generator runs on liquid propane gas using .6 gallons an hour running full tilt. A propane quick connector is located on the frame at the rear of the 5er. Jim connects a short hose to the generator runs it down through the hole and into the connector on the frame. The generator has it’s own starting battery. When he fires it up he closes the lid and enjoys electricity. It's much easier to boondock if you have a generator. I used a Honda portable generator with our 5th wheel, but it was underpowered and required me to carry gas when I was driving a diesel truck. I had to dig it out of the storage compartment, fill it with fuel, pull the string a few times - it was a hassle.This system is a huge improvement in ease of use and may be the solution you’re looking for. You can purchase the Juice Box at RV parts stores carrying Onan products. Keeping you current - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

RV’s With Big Batteries Now Have a New Watering System

Single point battery watering systems are fairly new in RV applications. I for one don’t enjoy the whole “battery watering” drill. One of the reasons I’m a full time RVer is because I don’t want to be bothered having to “water” stuff, especially my batteries! Unfortunately, it’s fact of RV life unless you go with alternative gas matte batteries which have their own unique problems. These systems have been in service on the regular sized 12 and 6 volt batteries but unavailable on the larger 4, 6 & 8 D batteries found on commercial type trucks and many motorhomes. I did a story on why you should use these systems here Battery Watering System: As far as I know, Tom Tomlinson is the only one selling these 8 D battery watering systems to RV customers. The new single point all in one snap-in coupler is unique because it is a coupler, valve, filter, flow indicator and Y-splitter all in one. This system equally fills each battery cell simultaneously without overflow because the individual fill caps stop replenishing exactly when the proper water level is reached. The fill caps also have level indicators so you can tell when you system needs more water just by looking at the caps. Just connect the pump to your quick coupler and put the pump into a bottle of distilled water and after a few pumps you’re done. You can read more about it at Tom’s website here RV Power Supply: I like how this system works because it’s both safe and easy.

Helping you keep the lights on - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Does Your RV Really Need Solar Panels

Many RVs sport solar panels and the question is whether you need them for your style of RVing. Solar electric systems have been a part of the RV scene for several years and they are effective electric power producers. These systems use photovoltaic modules to turn sunlight into electricity. The good news is they are becoming more effective and less expensive as new technology grows. RVs using these systems are wired allowing the solar panels to charge the house batteries through a charge controller. A charge controller is very important because it regulates the amount of electricity sent to your house batteries preventing over or under charging conditions. If you have enough solar panels and batteries you can generate enough electricity to live comfortably without ever being plugged into an external power source. To use your AC appliances, you’ll also need an inverter to change 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC power. If your style of RVing includes extended periods of time in the wilderness away from electricity then you have three choices: 1. Use candles 2. Use a generator or 3. Rely on solar energy. If you rarely boondock (camp without hook-ups) then you really don’t need a solar system. Some RVers like to have a solar electric system “just in case” but they rarely use it. When I ask them what they mean by “just in case” they usually mean the power grid going down or natural disasters in any event they're prepared “just in case”. Whether or not you should go to the trouble and expense to install a solar electric system boils down to how you choose to camp. If you are or plan to become a serious boondocker, then you’ll need an efficient solar electric system. If on the other hand you almost always stay at RV parks, then you seriously don’t need solar. If you store your RV without keeping it connected to shore power consider installing a small solar electric system. This will keep your batteries charged and ready to go (provided you do proper battery maintenance). Many boondockers also use wind powered electric generators for additional power. Whether or not you need wind power depends a great deal on how and where you camp. There are many reputable companies (here is one SolarSummit)that will sell you a kit to install a system yourself and there are also dealers who will do the installation for you. Keeping you charged up about RVing - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Use Your Multi-Meter to Check that RV 50 Amp Receptacle

Not all RV hook-ups are created equal. Make it a habit to check your electric connections BEFORE you plug in your RV power cord. You will save yourself a pile of money and you will be confident your RV site is providing you good electric current. I’ve actually found faulty 50 amp receptacles. The problem could be corrosion, a loose wire or faulty installation. This guy drove off with his power cord still connected to the pedestal and damaged the the receptacle. So, you never know what you’re going to find even at the finest RV parks. In the video at the end of this article I demonstrate how to use your multi-meter to check a typical 50 amp service. Multi-meters are inexpensive and should be in every RVer's toolbox. This is what the inside of a 50 amp receptacle looks like. The “train tunnel” shaped hole is the ground wire (if the cover were on it would be located at the bottom of pattern - it’s the bare copper wire). The white wire is the “common” and feeds under the plastic to the top blade holder in this picture. The black wire on the right and the red wire on the left both carry 120 volts. When you push your 50 amp plug into the receptacle the left blade (red wire) gets 120 volts and the other blade (black wire) also gets 120 volts for a total of 240 volts. To thoroughly check your 50 amp service do the following. 1. Set up your multi-meter (black wire in the “COM” hole on the multi-meter and the red wire in the “AC/DC” hole). Place the wafer switch to 200 on the AC side. 2. Place the pointy end of the red multi-meter cable into the “train tunnel” shaped hole and the pointy end of the black multi-meter cable into the opposite hole. You should read zero which means your ground and common are working properly. 2. Leave the black wire where it is at and move the red wire to one of the side blade holes. The meter should read 120. Move the red wire to the opposite side and the meter should read 120. 3. Leave the red wire where it is and move the black wire to the “train tunnel” shaped hole and read 120. Next move the red wire back to the opposite side and read 120. 4. Leave the red wire where it is and move the wafer switch on the multi-meter to AC 600 and move the black lead to the opposite side from the red wire and read 240. You may get slightly different readings but as long as they are within three or four points from the 120 and 240 readings it shouldn't be a problem. If your readings are weak on one or both sides, your electric system will not appreciate it. You should bring it to the attention of management and move to a different space. However, I would check the alternate space before I moved my RV because it could be a park-wide problem. Caution, electric shock hazards may be present so be very careful when working with electric test equipment. Read and follow the directions and precautions of the multi-meter manual. Keeping you plugged into the grid - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

RVer Lights Himself Up, Read the Shocking Details

The other day I was wiring in a new 110 power outlet in my RV. You're not supposed to work on wiring or electric fixtures while the electricity is on. You're supposed to turn off the breaker to the fixture so you won’t get shocked. Well, I thought I was good enough to bypass that step, after all I’ve wired hot connections many times before. The work was progressing well until I inadvertently allowed my body to complete the circuit at which time, in cartoon fashion, my body went stiff while my hair stood on end making punk rocker’s jealous. A warm sensation beginning at my fingers (which were attached to the two opposing wires) traveled up my arms giving me that special warm tingly feeling that only live electricity can provide. Following this instant reminder of the power of nature the electric shock ceased and smoke began wafting out of my ears. I smoothed my hair back and finished wiring the receptacle knowing it couldn’t shock me again. Satisfied everything was properly connected I marched outside to my electric bay to reset the breaker. Problem was none of the breakers tripped during my human multi-meter act. For the next twenty minutes I wondered around looking for the answer but couldn’t figure it out. I busted out the RV manual and began looking at the electrical section and there it was something quite simple. I slapped myself on the forehead as I gazed at a picture of the Ground Fault Interrupt (GFI) receptacle. Yes, all I had to do was push that little red button back in and problem solved. This little guy monitors the current leaving and compares it to the current returning and if there is a variance it trips off. So, when your connected to shore power or your generator and the RV receptacles go dark, check that little red button on your GFI receptacle first. Keeping you plugged in and powered up - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

How Many ROAD Scholars Does it Take to Change a Light Bulb

I know you've been putting off changing those exterior light bulbs on your RV. The Professor of RVing shows you how to it's done in this enlightening video.

Make Your Toy Hauler More Powerful!

Bob Kendall wanted to have a desk in the back of his toy hauler 5th wheel, but there was no 110 power, phone line, 12 volt outlet, or satellite cable hook-up. He uses a satellite internet system and needs a convenient place to hook into his modem. He designed this multi-function box that includes all the functions he needs in a very nice application. As you can see he ran conduit up from the floor into the box which is screwed into the bulkhead (Navy talk for “wall”). After he removes his mini-cooper out of the toy hauler, he has easy access to his electrical and cable hook-ups when he sets up his desk.

How Do You Effectively Use The Electric Oultet Under Your Cabinets?

Power outlets under cabinets may be OK for a few appliances, like a mixer or a coffee pot (if the cord is long enough), but a little thing called gravity makes them totally useless for things like transformers, battery chargers and items with short cords. Here is one possible solution. Notice that a standard surge protector power strip was secured to the wall. The power strip cord was also secured to the wall and under the cabinet with screw-in wire holders. This makes a neat application utilizing the otherwise useless under-cabinet outlet. Also notice that Velcro strips are used to hold the top transformer in place on the surge protector power strip.

RV Power Cord Solution Helps You Relax And Unwind

“You Relax… We’ll Unwind” is the motto for the Glendinning RLC Cablemaster RV power cable storage system. John Glendinning demonstrates the invention his dad came up with back in the late 60’s. While I was interviewing John Glendinning, a satisfied customer, Lou McAbee Jr. came up and told us that he had been using this product and is a completely satisfied customer. You can easily install this system yourself.Unlike the other power cable reels on the market the Cablemaster will handle as much cable as you can store because it does not wind the cable onto a spool but coils it in an empty container. There are no slip rings and therefore this technology eliminates potential electric connection problems. The typical length of an RV 50 amp application is 36 feet. John recommends that you also purchase the extra flexible power cable if your power cable is too stiff to easily coil when retrieved.
The mounting configurations for this unit are very flexible. If you have an empty space where the cable can be coiled up and stored, then you are in business. If you don’t have a space, you can order the unit already mounted with its own container. The website has a pdf file of the Cablemaster brochure and also 3-D drawings of the various mounting configurations. This unit costs $475.00 and soft power cable will run you about $150.00. Glendinning Website

From Watering the Lawn to Watering the Batteries

When I owned a house it came with a lawn which I had to water and mow and water and mow... As a full time RVer I no longer own a lawn (angels singing, fanfare playing) and therefore I no longer have to water the lawn. However, I still have to water my batteries. A vital component of your RV’s electrical system is your battery bank. It really is like a bank because you make deposits of electricity and then make withdrawals and hopefully you never let the balance in your account drop below 50%. Why? Because this will ruin your batteries like bounced checks will ruin your credit.

You also need to “water” your batteries from time to time. This means that you “top-off” the cells with distilled water. Always use distilled water because the minerals have been removed and will prevent CBU (crud build up) on your battery plates. To do this job you will need distilled water, a turkey baster, eye protection, a flashlight and some paper towels. First put on your eye protection (you’re working with acid here), then open your battery cell cover. Mine are the ez-open kind but you may have batteries that require a flat-head screwdriver to pop them open. Next you suck up some water in the old turkey baster and fill your battery cells so that the water completely covers the lead plates (hopefully you haven’t let the water level get this low). I usually fill the cell until the water is even with the bottom of the fill hole. Do not fill it to the top because when you replace the cap, it will spill battery acid all over your battery and run down the side and muck up your battery compartment causing severe CBU. If you do accidentally fill it to the top, just use the baster to remove the excess and put it into the next available cell that needs topped off. Do not - repeat DO NOT gargle with this stuff!Put the covers back on and wipe up any spills with the paper towels. Be sure to wash your hands – a mixture of baking soda and water will neutralize any acid that may have come in contact with skin or anything else for that matter. Try not to get any of this stuff on your skin or your clothing. But if you do, don’t freak out, just neutralize it and thoroughly wash it off. That’s it, you’re done. Oh, one word of advice, don’t use your kitchen turkey baster – trust me, you wife will know you used it no matter how much you clean it! Just pick one up at the Dollar Store and stay out of trouble. Jim

My Porch Light Needs Help!

The porch light that came with my 5th wheel is almost as bright as a birthday candle. I would like more light available near the entry, but haven’t decided what to do. I don’t want to attract bugs, but I also want some light. I’m still mulling it over in the laboratory of my brain. Speaking of my brain, my doctor told me I really shouldn't go in there alone! In the meantime, my friend Larry Ellert came up with the idea for this porch/entry light. He used a Regent 13 watt fluorescent light with photo cell. You can pick this unit up a Lowe’s for under $25. Larry used pvc pipe (available at any hardware store) as a stand. He used a 5 way pvc connector for the base with four pvc legs (capped) extend at right angles holding the center pole vertical. If you can’t find a 5 way connector at you local hardware store you can order one here http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/pvc.shtml

An electric cord was run through the inside of the verticle pole and up to the light and electric outlet. He uses this electrical outlet for party lights or the vacuum cleaner, radio or whatever other electric appliance he needs it for. Since the light is on a photo cell, it’s not on during the day, but there is still power at the electric receptacle. This is a good way to use that extra 110 hook-up in your campsite electric box. This unit provides so much light that Larry masked part of the light off with tape to reduce the amount of available light. Also, since it is top heavy, he tucks it under the wheel of his coach to prevent the wind from blowing it over. I’m thinking of an amber light to help cut down on the bugs. Once I decide what to do, you can be sure I’ll write an article on it. In the meantime, this will give all you tinkerers out there something to think about. If you have a brighter idea leave a comment, I’ll keep the light on for you. Jim

Power Drag

A good journalist always has four things with him, his pencil and pad, his camera and his wits. Fortunately I had at least one of these with me this morning. Here is an RVer who was experiencing a power drag – a power cord drag, that is. He was an experienced RVer so no laughing least it happens to you. Fortunately I was able to stop him before he got out of the park but it looks like he dragged the cord quite a ways since he was almost out of the park. These power cords are pretty tough and withstand quite a bit of abuse, but you can’t drag them very far before they get mangled.

He obviously didn’t use a checklist or do a final walk-around. I used to use a checklist when I was flying aircraft in the Air Force – you can’t just pull over to the side of the road while flying – so it is important to make sure everything is in proper working order before take off. Fortunately for RVers we can pull off the road and take care of most problems without much fuss. We know we need to pull over when we see people driving by waiving frantically, flashing their lights and honking their horn at us. Hopefully this is not a normal occurrence for you. If you don’t use a checklist, at least do a walk-around before you leave. A simple walk-around includes (at minimum) looking at all the storage compartments to ensure they are secured, looking at the roof to ensure the vents are closed and the TV antenna is down, a look at the tires, a look at all the connection possibilities (water, sewer, satellite, power, phone) and finally a look around the site to make sure you didn’t leave anything behind. If this RVer (more than likely in a pull-through space since he was towing a vehicle) would have done a good walk-around he would have discovered that his electric cord was still plugged in before he climbed in the motorhome and left.

Bottom line, do a walk-around as a final precaution before climbing into the cab and starting your engine. Be safe out there! Jim

Switch Replacement

This is the type of switch you see in most RV's. It is a typical on/off switch.There is a reason that RV's are required to have fire extinguishers onboard. My son, the fireman, tells me that if I have a miniature fire (the size of a tissue box for instance) then use it, if it is larger then get out immediately and call 911. Let it burn to the ground, insurance will replace most of it, and you can't be replaced for any amount of money. The problem is not the fire (you will be long dead before the fire ever gets to your body). The problem is the toxic gas produced by the fire will knock you unconscious - that's why they say to drop to the ground and crawl fast when there is overhead smoke. Never go back in for pets, let them come out on their own. OK, so what causes fires in RV's. I can't find any stats that talk specifically about RV's but in regular houses many fires are caused by faulty electric connections. Here is an example of a faulty RV electric switch:How do you determine if switches are faulty? You can take the switch cover off and inspect them. If you feel the switch cover and it is warm to the touch - you have a dangerous problem. One night when I went to turn off the switches in the 4 switch model, I noticed that it felt warm. I removed the switch cover to discover that one of the switches was scorched and melted. The male piece of the switch broke off and stayed in the female bayonet connector when I tried to disconnect it from the switch. We need to be vigilant about inspecting and maintaining our own RV systems. I went to the nearest RV parts store and purchased a new switch and installed it. I also cut the old connectors off the wires leading to the switch and replaced these with new electrical female bayonet connectors. The lesson learned here is to be alert to your RV systems and when something doesn't seem right - investigate before it becomes a larger problem. RV dealers are really good about repairing factory mistakes, but you are responsible for finding the mistakes and getting them corrected. Jim

Ford Chassis Turn Signal Problem

We attended the Naval Post Graduate Chapel this past Sunday and I met and befrinded Chaplain Fred McGuffin (US Navy). He is also an avid RV'er. He shared with me how he fixed his signal problem on his class "C" motorhome Ford chassis. He began to experience problems when he began towing his car. His turn signals wouldn't work properly. He went to this site, www.dasplace.net , followed the directions and solved the problem.

This is a great web site that has many good ideas with instructions and pictures. There is also an excellent wiring diagram for all RV shore power with diagrams. Good site.

RV and Satellite Radio

A satellite radio is an excellent companion for RV’ers. It used to be that when you were camping out in the boonies or traveling along I-80 through Nevada you couldn’t get radio reception. Not anymore! Now you can get all the radio programs you want for a small investment and a low monthly fee. There are currently two satellite radio companies you can use – XM™ or Sirius™. What you need. 1. A receiver. 2. An antenna. 3. A FM radio or a set of headphones. I purchased the XM Rodie ™ from Staples for $80.00 and it came with the automobile installation kit which includes a cradle, cigarette lighter power plug, and a magnetic antenna. I mounted the cradle on the dash and ran the antenna wire along the inside of my door frame weather stripping (easy) and the magnet attaches to the roof. I drilled two tiny holes and mounted the receiver cradle on the dash of the truck. You can play this through your FM radio or plug earphones into the cradle. I usually use the earphones. You can pass many a mile enjoying music, news, financial reports, NPR, comedy and whatever your heart desires.

Once we are set up at the RV park I pull the receiver off the cradle in the truck then put it into my XM boom box for indoors. The boom box is weather resistant and can be used outside as well as inside. I don’t know how it works, but the antenna is able to pick up satellite inside the RV. It has a remote control and has good sound quality. You may also use headphones with the boom box. I bought the boom box at WalMart for $80.00.

I pay $12.00 a month, but you must purchase a year in advance. If you sign up for more years the price gets cheaper – down to about $10.00 a month.

If you don’t want the boom box, you can purchase an indoor kit for around $50.00 and play it through your RV’s built in FM stereo system. It operates the same as in your automobile – by playing through an unused channel on your FM radio.

You can preprogram the XM radio to all your favorite stations. This makes it easy to change stations when you are driving. They also have holiday programming. From now until Christmas, we are listening to a variety of Christmas music – all without commercial interruption!

Only the music channels are free of commercials. The talk and news stations have commercials. One of my favorites for the RV lifestyle is the Weather Channel. This feature alone is worth the price of the system!!

Battery Box Upgrade

Our Hitchhicker II LS came stock with two 12 volt batteries. This was not ample for more than one or two days of dry camping. Therefore I decided to install 4 new 6 volt golf cart batteries and hook them up to give us more dry camping power. The problem was where to put the extra two batteries. The original batteries were located port and starbord in the front of the basement by the 5th wheel legs. They each had a seporate battery box and vent hose. I removed the original plastic battery cases and cut out the plywood inbetween the two battery box holes making one long rectangle hole. Then I had a friend manufacture a box out of sheet metal to fit in the hole. I attached the box to the plywood with eye bolts which also act as tie down sites for the box lid. The sheet metal box has a lip welded to it to hold it in place in the hole. I used plastic edge guards (available at any hardware store) and on top of that I put a rim of pipe insullation to form a tight seal. I chose a wooden top since I did not want any material that would conduct electricity over the top of the battery terminals (the lid has plenty of clearence above the battery posts). I used snubbers for tie - downs. I also reconnected the original vent hose to the box which also has vent holes in it. If you use wet batteries, you must vent them as they produce toxic fumes. I used a 1 1/2 plastic electric conduit nipple and screwed one end into the flex hose, passed the nipple through the pre-drilled hole in the box and attached it with an electrical conduit nut. I put a long rubber floor mat in the bottom of the box for the batteries to rest on. I used a one inch wooden plank as thecover.

Electric Auxilliary Power

Electric auxilliary power comes in handy in many settings. What is it? It is an extension cord in your kitchen, W/D area, bathroom or anywhere else you need extra electric power. Gone are the days I had to run an extension cord through the window. I drilled a hole with a hole saw into the side of the 5th Wheel and attached an RV electric cord outlet cover that can be purchased at any RV parts store. I then ran a 9 foot male plug through the cover and attached it to an electric junction box. The cord retracts into the cabinet under my kitchen sink. I connected 3 regular duplex recepticle outlets with electric boxes and 14 guage romex wire (available at any hardware store). These outlets are wired by romex wire, run back to a central junction box (pictured below), where they were connected with wire nuts inside the junction box. I did not attach a seporate circuit breaker because the outlets I plug into already have a circuit breaker. The finished product looks professional and it sure comes in handy when you are camped at relatives, a fairground (that only has 15 or 20 amp regular plugs) or when you just want extra power for running extra heaters, hair dryers, washer/dryer, etc. I wish I had done this two years ago :). You will need to think about where to run the wires, I had to drill a hole to run the wire up the wall to the W/D area. Be careful not to cut wires behind a wall or support beams. I strongly recommend you test before you begin cutting holes in the wall. I ran most of the wire in the basement and secured it with electric wire nylon ties that can be screwed into the overhead. I did this myself, but I have experience with electric installation. Use at least a 14 guage external extension cord to attach to the plug comming out of the electric cord cover.

For legal purposes, read and heed the following disclaimer: "Have a qualified RV electrition install this type of electrical system. Attempting to do this yourself may result in damage to yourself or your property. I make no warranties implied or otherwise as to the safety or use of this application. Electrical systems are dangerous therefore, install this system at your own risk."