A Multifunction Work Table Perfect for RVers

I stopped at Costco a few days ago to pick up some toilet paper for the RV. I like TP from warehouse type stores because it's usually cheaper and comes in a convenient bail that stores neatly in my RV storage compartments. OK, you're probably asking, does he use plain off-the-shelf TP in his RV? Yes, I do and I've never had a problem. I also don't use tank chemicals and we've never had a problem with odor, but that's a story for another day. Since I was in Costco I happened down the tool isle and saw this table. As you know by now, I appreciate multifunction items for the RV lifestyle because if you can carry one thing that does the job of three others you eliminate extra weight and have more available storage space. This table is falls squarely into this category. It's tough enough to be used as scaffolding for cleaning those hard to reach places on your RV. It's also a handy work table for those occasional projects that require cutting, sanding and the use of power tools. It can also be converted into a patio table suitable for an afternoon game of scrabble. When the game is over, turn it into a BBQ table where you can torch up some of those lip-smackin' baby-back ribs. It folds up into the size of the display box and has an easy carry handle. Costco sells them for $89.99. This is the kind of multi-use equipment RVers prize. With more gadgets than a Swiss army knife - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Use Your Multi-Meter to Check that RV 50 Amp Receptacle

Not all RV hook-ups are created equal. Make it a habit to check your electric connections BEFORE you plug in your RV power cord. You will save yourself a pile of money and you will be confident your RV site is providing you good electric current. I’ve actually found faulty 50 amp receptacles. The problem could be corrosion, a loose wire or faulty installation. This guy drove off with his power cord still connected to the pedestal and damaged the the receptacle. So, you never know what you’re going to find even at the finest RV parks. In the video at the end of this article I demonstrate how to use your multi-meter to check a typical 50 amp service. Multi-meters are inexpensive and should be in every RVer's toolbox. This is what the inside of a 50 amp receptacle looks like. The “train tunnel” shaped hole is the ground wire (if the cover were on it would be located at the bottom of pattern - it’s the bare copper wire). The white wire is the “common” and feeds under the plastic to the top blade holder in this picture. The black wire on the right and the red wire on the left both carry 120 volts. When you push your 50 amp plug into the receptacle the left blade (red wire) gets 120 volts and the other blade (black wire) also gets 120 volts for a total of 240 volts. To thoroughly check your 50 amp service do the following. 1. Set up your multi-meter (black wire in the “COM” hole on the multi-meter and the red wire in the “AC/DC” hole). Place the wafer switch to 200 on the AC side. 2. Place the pointy end of the red multi-meter cable into the “train tunnel” shaped hole and the pointy end of the black multi-meter cable into the opposite hole. You should read zero which means your ground and common are working properly. 2. Leave the black wire where it is at and move the red wire to one of the side blade holes. The meter should read 120. Move the red wire to the opposite side and the meter should read 120. 3. Leave the red wire where it is and move the black wire to the “train tunnel” shaped hole and read 120. Next move the red wire back to the opposite side and read 120. 4. Leave the red wire where it is and move the wafer switch on the multi-meter to AC 600 and move the black lead to the opposite side from the red wire and read 240. You may get slightly different readings but as long as they are within three or four points from the 120 and 240 readings it shouldn't be a problem. If your readings are weak on one or both sides, your electric system will not appreciate it. You should bring it to the attention of management and move to a different space. However, I would check the alternate space before I moved my RV because it could be a park-wide problem. Caution, electric shock hazards may be present so be very careful when working with electric test equipment. Read and follow the directions and precautions of the multi-meter manual. Keeping you plugged into the grid - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Tool Box A Must For RV Towing Vehicles

I pulled my 5th wheel next to my assigned RV site in the pouring rain. I had a hard time backing into a tight spot at an RV park in Arizona. I wasn’t expecting rain, after all, it was Arizona, so I was glad to have all the tools I would need for a quick set-up close at hand. For a travel trailer or a 5er you need a stabilizer crank, some boards for the landing gear, tire chocks, water hose, channel lock pliers, electric chord adapter, water pressure gauge and a multi-meter (to check out the utilities). I kept all these things in my handy locking truck-bed toolbox. These toolboxes come in various sizes and are made from aluminum, steel or plastic. They can insert in your truck bed with wings that hold the box up off your truck deck so you can slide lumber and other long items under it. You can also get boxes that rest on the bottom of the truck bed without wings. Downdraft off the face of a 5th wheel trailer will blow stuff out of your truck bed if it isn’t secured and these toolboxes keep your stuff safe and dry. Clearance is an important consideration if you’re pulling a 5th wheel because the thickness of the toolbox could interfere with the operation of the king-pin pivot overhang. So, before you purchase one make sure you have adequate clearance tolerances. I enjoyed my truck-bed toolbox because it held a large amount of gear and it locked so I didn’t have to worry about people walking off with my stuff. Since I used the truck as a touring vehicle I liked having my tools with me. My biggest problem was keeping it clean and organized. Most of them come with sliding trays that will help you with this task. Even trucks with modified tow-bodies employ these boxes. They are a “must-have” if you pull a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Some folks even mount them on the back of trailers. Helping you keep it all together - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Power Up Your RV With Pneumatic Air

RVers are concerned with air pressure in their tires, but they may also have air bag stabilizers on their tow vehicles or pneumatic power tools they need to use. This requires an air compressor that will do the job. I’ve owned several air compressors in various sizes and configurations. I'm currently using a Master Power, 2 Horse Power, 150 psi, 5 gallon capacity air compressor by Cooper Tools. I like this unit because it's basically square and fits neatly in one of my slide out trays in the motorhome basement next to a power outlet. It will handle two hoses at once so you can have a hose for both sides of your coach or have two air tools hooked up at once. Since motorhome tires have a required tire air pressure of 110 psi (depending on load and manufacturers recommendations) you will need a heavy duty air compressor to handle this amount of air pressure. Most motorhomes with air brakes and air bags have a valve that allows you to use the onboard air compressor. The problem with this is that these systems are set to cut off at around 130 psi so it takes a long time to fill your tires because it has to cycle back and forth until your tires are topped off. A positive point is that motorhome air is "dried" so no moisture enters your tires (a bad thing). If you use a stand alone unit, you should attach an air drier before using it to inflate your tires.I like my Master Power unit because it has a fold down handle and rear wheels allowing you to “tip and roll” the unit wherever you need it. Relying solely on the motorhome unit does not afford the luxury of moving the compressor so depending on the length of your rig, you will need 50 or 60 feet of hose to air up all your tires. Another problem in using the motorhome unit is that you’ll irritate your neighbors with your noisome engine running and the air compressor cycling off and on because it takes much longer to air up using your motorhome’s air compressor than it does a quieter less obtrusive stand alone compressor. The drawback to the electric air compressor is that it requires electricity to work, so you will need to run it off of shore power. Air compressors suck up good deal of electric current so you will need to use a heavy duty extension cord. If you’re out in the boonies most motorhome generators will power these units. However, the smaller portable generators like the Honda 2000 will not. I purchased this unit from COSTCO for $150.00 and I have seen a similar model at Sears. A portable unit like this is useful in many ways including blowing out dust from your water heater, refrigerator chimney and external heater orifice. They also come in handy for powering pneumatic staplers, nailers, grinders, wrenches, buffers, drills and many other pneumatic tools. Compressed air has many uses and having access to a unit like this makes RV maintenance more convenient. Helping you blow off some compressed air - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

Now Large RVs Can Have Their Tires Changed Without Removing The Wheels

I have a 40 foot motorhome and do not carry a spare tire. I don’t know many people with motorhomes who do carry a spare. When we get a flat, we call the towing company and they either repair the tire or change it out. Before the TireSpyder came along, the tire repairman had to completely remove the wheel and take it back to the shop or fix it at the roadside if he had a tire machine mounted on his rig. Now he can just jack up the vehicle and use the TireSpyder to completly remove the tire off of the wheel without taking it off the vehicle. Hopefully your towing service uses this new machine because it’s much faster and will have you back on the road sooner. The repairman doesn’t have to lift the heavy tire because the TireSpyder does the work for him (which makes for a happier repairman). Visit their website and watch a video of how this new machine will make RV roadside tire replacement much less of a hassle.TireSpyderKeeping you posted on the latest RV related technology - Jim Twamley

How RVers Can Tote and Store Their Little Lumberyards

RVers have often been accused of taking along a partial lumberyard on their journeys. Why do we carry pieces of wood around? Mostly it’s for leveling and configuring stabilizer jacks. Sometimes we use it to elevate our sewer hose, or hold down the sewer hose elbow. They come in handy for chalking tires, creating a barrier so we don’t back into our rigs, landing gear platforms, and all sorts of things. Go to any RV park and you’ll see lots of lumber being employed in this manner. The problem is finding a place for all this wood. It also becomes dirty and wherever you store it will soon be cluttered with dirt and debris that collects on the wood and quickly spreads to your storage area. Richard Walter of DeBary, Florida uses a canvas firewood carrier to both tote and store his little lumberyard. Notice that he also uses the plastic Lego style blocks as well. They all store neatly in his tote and it keeps the dirt and debris in the bag and out of his storage area.I’m out here digging up RVing tips like crazy so you'll have a more enjoyable RVing experience. I hope to see you on the road this summer. Jim

Ladders And RVs Are Inseparable!

Ever watch an oceanographic show and see those opportunistic fish that attach themselves to larger fish? That’s how I think of ladders on RVs. About seven out of 10 RVs on the road today have a ladder strapped to them (usually on the roof access ladder). Once at the campground the ladder often comes down and is placed under the RV for a number of days until it finally melts into the ground.It’s important to have a ladder because you need one in order to put up windshield covers, wash the bugs off the top, change that light bulb high up on the side, wax and a number of other important jobs. Where do you store your ladder when you’re not using it? Where do you store it when you travel? As you know I recently purchased a nice used motorhome that happens to have pass-through storage. I decided to purchase a fold-up ladder (available at most RV parts stores) and stow it in one of the pass-through bays. These ladders come in six and eight feet lengths and are held together in a neat square bundle by a single Velcro strap. To open and use the ladder you simply slide the ladder apart, bend the red tabs down until you hear a “click” which indicates that they are locked in place. Now you spread the ladder legs apart until the safety locks are down and locked in the “A” frame position. The only problem with this ladder is that the rungs are skinny. Some folks like a wider ladder rung because it provides more comfortable support for their feet. The great thing about this ladder is that it is light weight, can easily store away or be carried on your roof-rack. Ladders can be dangerous, so please use caution when climbing on them. Jim

Do You Have To Live With A Store Bought Toolbox?

Frank Bailey is a serious full time RVer (six and a half years now). He recently purchased a Ranch Hauler by Sportchassis which has the components of a Sterling/Freightliner/Mercedes Benz all in a medium duty truck. He uses this beast for towing his Grand Teton 5th wheel. Frank says his old Ford F-550 had more storage space because of his custom towing body. His new rig has storage but not nearly enough for a full time RVer, so Frank, a former engineer with Case Tractor Company (he worked in their test lab) came up with a nice design for an all aluminum storage cabinet. He didn’t just want a box because as he says, “Everything just falls to the bottom.” So he designed an upright, watertight shelving system in a great looking cabinet. Highway Products made this storage cabinet for Frank and they still have the drawings if you want them to make one just like it for you. You can read more about the company here: Highway Products

Receiver Hitch Can Crusher

Recycling is good for the planet and the pocketbook. The price of aluminum keeps going up and many folk’s cash in on the soda can redemption deposit by turning un-crushed cans, but sometimes (and in some states) it’s just easier to crush your cans and turn them in by bulk weight.I ran across a guy using a can crusher in his receiver hitch and tossing the cans in a bag hanging on the ladder of his class C motorhome. As a money making hobby he takes a walk, collects cans and the nickels and dimes add up. When he gets back to his motorhome he runs the cans through the receiver hitch can crusher. Just don't get your fingers caught in it! Jim

Compressed Air Clean-up

I carry a small portable air compressor. This is not the kind you plug into the cigarette lighter, but an actual 110 volt air compressor that can put out 120 lbs of pressure. Like many of my tools it does double duty. I primarily use it to keep the tires inflated and to annoy pesty neighbors, but I also use it to blow out our electronic equipment and appliances. Warning: Always use eye protection when using compressed air this way.

A word of caution, compressed air from an air compressor can contain small amounts of water condensation that can damage electronic components. You can filter the air or you can simply allow the electronic components time to completely dry after they have been blown out before turning them back on again. Computers hate dust and are much happier when you blow the dust out. My friend Hector, A knowledgeable RV technician, told me that RV appliances should be periodically blown out with compressed air. He says that if you only use your RV part time then you should do it once a year, but a full-timer should do it every six months. I use a blower attachment on my air hose that reduces the air flow to a small forceful stream. With this I am able to blow out the opening behind the refrigerator, the external heater orifice and the hot water heating tube orifice as shown above. Simple maintenance like this will help keep your appliances working properly and will ensure that any foreign objects, like insect nests, dust and debris are removed. Even if you cover these openings with wire mesh to prevent insects from gaining access, you still need to bow out the dust.

Fresh Water Tank Filler

Don’t throw that drinking water hose away before you make a fresh water tank filler out of it. You could buy one at the store that looks like this: Or, you could make one yourself that looks like this. All you have to do is cut off the end with the female connector and “presto,” you have a fresh water tank filler. I like these homemade units better because you can make them longer than the commercial cousin and they stay in the tank filler recepticle better.

Then you add a water pressure gauge and an inline valve and you have a pressure testing system as well as a fresh water tank filler. This tool does double duty (you know how I appreciate tools that are multipurpose!) I don’t always put a water pressure regulator on when I hook-up. I make it a point to test the pressure every time before I attach the hose to the city water inlet of my rig. An RV Tech told me that most new RV plumbing can handle pressures as high as 90 psi without a problem. I, however, put a water pressure regulator on if the pressure at the hose bib exceeds 60 psi.

I experienced problems once when I was using one of those light blue plastic water pressure regulators from a large chain store. These are junk! Save your money and invest in a better quality brass regulator from your friendly neighborhood RV parts dealer. The problem was that the water pressure was reduced so much that it wouldn't force open the check valve on the rig and all I had was a trickle. You could get more water out of a squirt gun! When I changed to a higher quality water pressure regulator everything was fine. Jim

"Upstairs Toolbox"

Our family moved around frequently while I served on active duty with the military. We had five kids which meant that we usually purchased two story houses to accommodate everyone. One of the things that frustrated me most about a two story house was the fact that when you needed a tool, and you were on the second floor, you had to make a journey downstairs to the toolbox. Then you would go back up stairs only to discover that you picked up the wrong size tool for the job. To remedy this situation, I put together an “upstairs toolbox” which was a smaller version of my main toolbox in the downstairs garage.

This was a happy compromise but now that I’m living full time in our 5th wheel I am stuck with the same problem. When I need tools, I have to go outside and open a storage compartment and drag out everything until I get to my tool box. I usually have to make several trips in and out until I have all the proper tools assembled.

At first I began leaving a few tools in the junk drawer but this left less room for all the junk and when I was using my tools outside, well you guessed it, I had to come inside and rummage through the junk drawer to find that Phillips screwdriver I left in there. We don’t have enough room for an “upstairs toolbox” in the 5th wheel, but we do have room for an all purpose-tool. This all-purpose tool has everything I need for simple jobs and saves me from having to go outside and dig through storage when I just need to tighten up a screw. I use the needle-nose pliers and the Philips head screwdriver frequently. So, if you are only going to have one handy tool inside the rig get yourself a good all-purpose tool. I’ve found that I fix the little things more quickly because this tool is so readily accessible. Jim