How to operate your RV awning properly

RV awnings vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and there are many awning manufacturers. This is the awning operation checklist from my Checklists for RVers E-book. The purpose of this checklist is to give you a basic guide to follow when opening and storing the retractable patio awning for your motorhome, travel trailer, fifth wheel trailer or other RV. It may not cover every item as it pertains to your awning; so only use the checks that apply to your RV's particular awning.

Most awnings have some type of travel locks about midway up, on both main awning arms. These locks assist in storing the awning to the side of the RV while traveling. Release these locking mechanisms.

Behind both main awning arms, on the support arms, there will be a knob that should be hand tight. Loosen both of these knobs. Look up at the end of the awning roller tube on the right hand side, towards the front of the RV. You will see a small lever. This lever is what locks the roller tube to the side of the RV. Take your awning rod and with the hooked end reach up and pull the lever down to release the roller tube.

Look up, around the middle of the roller tube, and you should see the end of the awning strap, with a loop in it. With the hook end of your awning rod reach up and hook the awning strap loop. Using the awning rod, pull the awning strap down until you can reach it with your hand. The awning roller tube should release and pull freely from both ends. Continue pulling down on the strap until the awning fabric and tube are fully extended. Now, the inner support arms, where you loosened the knobs, should slide freely to the top of the main arms and lock into place. Do this on both ends. When they are locked in place, starting on either end, take one hand and pull down on the main awning arm until the awning fabric is taught. With your other hand reach up and hand tighten the knob. Repeat this on the other end.

On the side of each main arm you will notice a lever. Starting on either end of the awning, take one hand and put it on the front of the main arm and take the lever with your other hand. Raise the main arm up to the height you want the awning, using the lever to help lift it. When you lower the lever it will lock into the closest adjusting hole on the arm where you release it. Repeat this on the other end.

Caution: Do not get your fingers or hands close to any moving or sliding parts.

Retracting your Patio Awning
Put one hand on the front of the main awning arm and the other hand on the lever on the side of the arm. As soon as you pull out on the lever the awning arm will begin to lower. Caution: keep fingers and hands away from moving and sliding awning parts. Using the lever for support slowly lower the main arm until it stops. Repeat on the other end.

Reach up and loosen the knob on one of the support arms. On the front of the main arm, towards the top, pull the release latch out that is locking the support arm in place. Holding the latch out begin to slide the support arm down the main arm. Continue to slide it all the way down until it stops. Repeat on the other end. Again watch your fingers.

If you are retracting the awning by yourself take your awning rod in one hand and with your other hand take the awning strap and slide it all the way down the awning tube, to where the awning lock lever is located, towards the front of the RV.

Pull down on the awning strap, applying enough pressure, until you can release the awning lock lever. Caution: as soon as the lever is released the awning tube will begin to retract. These tubes have springs that are wound with tension. Hold the strap securely and release the locking lever. Continue to hold the strap firmly and work it back to the middle of the awning tube by sliding it in the groove.

When the awning strap is close to the middle of the roller tube slowly let the awning begin to retract by easing off the awning strap. Place the hook end of the awning rod into the loop of the strap and continue to retract the awning until it is in the stored position. Do not let go of the strap too early. The awning can violently hit the side of the RV causing damage to the awning and/or the RV.

Secure the travel locks on both main arms and hand tighten both knobs on the back of the support arms.

Awning Tip: If somebody is assisting you the 3rd and 4th steps are much easier. Locate the awning strap in the middle of the awning tube. Have the person assisting you hold tension on the strap while you release the awning lock lever. Then, using the awning rod the person assisting you can slowly allow the awning to retract.

Well that about does it. With the proper care and a little preventive maintenance you and your RV awnings will have it made in the shade.

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

Follow these steps to winterize your RV

Fall is the time of year when many RVers lock up their RV for the cold-weather season ahead. Parking your RV for the winter requires some preventive measures so it will be ready to use next spring. You'll also be glad you did it when you don't have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of winter. Now the question is how do you prepare your recreational vehicle for winter, and who will be doing it? If you're like me and you enjoy performing the routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars, the "who" part is answered. As for the "how" part, this checklist is the same one I used to make my Winterizing & Storing DVD. I feel it is the easiest and most effective way to winterize your RV.

Before you get started there are a few items you will need. They can be found in most RV parts stores:

*Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do).

*A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.

*A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.

*Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

*If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass them before starting.

*Drain the fresh water holding tank.

*Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves.

*Drain the water heater. CAUTION: Never drain when hot or under pressure.

*Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower.

*Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.

*Recap all drains and close all faucets.

*By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.

*Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze.

*Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required.

*Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower.

*Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.

*Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet.

*Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.

*Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a few cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.

*If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.

*Make sure all faucets are closed.

*Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines.

Your RV is winterized!

This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. --Mark Polk

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

How to extend the life of an RV battery

How long your RV batteries last depends on how you use them. Factors include how they're used, how well they're maintained, how they're discharged, how they're re-charged, and how they are stored. A battery cycle is one complete discharge from 100 percent down to about 50 percent and then re-charged back to 100 percent.

One important factor to battery life is how deep the battery is cycled each time. If the battery is discharged to 50 percent everyday it will last twice as long as it would if its cycled to 80 percent. Keep this in mind when you consider a batteries amp hour rating. The amp hour rating is really cut in half because you don't want to completely discharge the battery before recharging it. The life expectancy depends on how soon a discharged battery is recharged. The sooner it is recharged the better.

What does all of this mean to you? That depends on how you use your RV. If most of your camping is done where you're plugged into an electrical source then your main concern is simply to properly maintain your deep cycle batteries. But if you like to do some serious dry-camping you'll want the highest amp hour capacities you can fit on your RV.

Deep cycle batteries come in different sizes. Some are designated by group size, like Group 24, 27 and 31. Basically the larger the battery the more amp hours you get. Depending on your needs and the amount of space you have available, there are several options when it comes to batteries. You can use one 12-volt Group 24 deep cycle battery that provides 70 to 85 amp hours or you can use two or more 12-volt batteries wired in parallel. Parallel wiring increases amp hours but not voltage.

If you have the room you can do what a lot of RVers do and switch from the standard 12-volt batteries to two of the larger 6-volt golf cart batteries. These pairs of 6-volt batteries need to be wired in series to produce the required 12-volts. Series wiring increases voltage but not amp hours. If this still doesn't satisfy your requirements you can build larger battery banks using four 6-volt batteries wired in series/parallel that will give you 12-volts and double your AH capacity. --Mark Polk

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.