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RV Articles & Opinion : Historic Highways



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RVing America's Historic Highways: The Old and New West on US 70
By Jerry (RiverGuy) Brown

US70 red, covered in this article green
As we pulled out of Roswell, icicles hung off the trailer from the water hose leaking when it froze during the night. But it was clear and bright, a good day for traveling. Resuming our westward trek, we followed US 70 up a long shallow grade through rolling desert hills.

The section of US 70 from Roswell to Las Cruces was originally part of the Chisum Trail, one of several famous routes used by cowboys cowboys driving cattle to markets north and west. It has other old west connections as well. The road soon drops down into the pretty Rio Hondo Valley, one time home of Billy the Kid. Along here US 70 is designated as part of the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway. Cottonwoods define the river bed as it flows among ranches and orchards.

Dining room at the Silver Dollar, by jkbrown
Approaching Hondo, I decided to take a photo of Timmy in the village of Tinnie nearby. I stopped at the Silver Dollar, originally an 1870 mercantile, now a small general store and elegant restaurant. I wondered how a fine dining establishment could survive out in this sparsely populated ranch country. It turned out we were just a few miles from the casino and horse track at Ruidoso, a significant tourist attraction in season. I was given a brief tour of the establishment, including its ornate bar and lovely dining rooms. Beveled and stained glass doors and windows, fine paintings, chandeliers –- an amazing place. There was a picture of the town's namesake on the wall: an unfortunate, mentally ill young woman, bound and gagged and peering out from behind her imposing mother in the old mercantile. The community took her name when she died.

Back on the road, we soon passed Ruidoso Downs and then entered the forested Sacramento Mountains of the Mescalero Apache. We gained a couple of thousand feet before descending into the vast Tularosa Basin.
Tularosa Basin from Dog Canyon, by jkbrown

Following the highway south, we camped at Oliver Lee Memorial State Park, a little beyond Alamogordo and at the foot of Dog Canyon and the Sacramentos. The park has a commanding view of the southern basin, stretching away toward El Paso to the south and the San Andreas Mountains to the west. At their base New Mexico's famous White Sands shimmer like a mirage.

Oliver Lee, it turns out, was quite a colorful character. A cattle baron of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, at one time he controlled a million acres in the basin and nearby mountains. His reputation is mixed, to put it politely. In addition to suspected rustling, he was once charged with murder. After a gun battle with the same Pat Garret who took down Billy the Kid, he was arrested and tried. Acquitted, he later went on to serve in the state legislature. The park is on Lee's ranch lands.
International Space Hall of Fame & Museum, by jkbrown

Alamogordo has 21st century connections too. At the end of the very short New Mexico Highway 2001 you'll find the International Space Hall of Fame and Museum. Exhibits there include many missiles, rocket engines, satellite and orbiter replicas, lots of historical displays and even a "land the shuttle" arcade-style challenge.

The space connection is long standing; nearby Holloman Air Force Base and the White Sands Missile Range have been America's preeminent testing site for rocket engines and other space technologies for over 60 years. Stealth fighters are routine sights in the skies overhead.

At the summit of Sacramento Peak, you can visit the National Solar Observatory and watch astronomy in action – the sun is best observed in daylight hours . The drive up US82 is on the steep side, gaining over 5000 feet as the terrain changes from Chihuahua desert to fir and aspen forest in the space of 15 miles. At the top of the grade the small town of Cloudcroft boasts the historic Lodge Resort and Spa, offering fine dining and the highest golf course in the nation.
White Sands National Monument, by jkbrown

For me the highlight of the area is White Sands National Monument. Located entirely within the Missile Range, the park comprises 115 square miles of snow white drifts separated occasionally by exposed desert floor. It's the largest pure gypsum dune field in the world. The Big Dune Trail provides a fascinating introduction to the unique plant and animal communities of the white desert. Timmy had a great time romping in the dunes as will children of all ages.

The Tularosa Basin has other worthwhile attractions, but we were ready to push on westward to see what else we could find on US 70.




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