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Historic Highways
RVing America's Historic Highways: The Heart of Historic Route 66
By Jerry (RiverGuy) Brown

Historic Rt 66 red, this column green
After retracing old Route 66 across California's Mojave Desert, we headed north from Needles to Bullhead City, Ariz., where I planned to camp for a few days alongside the Colorado River. Kingman is the western Arizona hub for Route 66, but despite being nearby, it's nearly 3000 feet higher and quite a bit colder in late December.

New Years Eve dawned mostly overcast and rather blustery, but I decided to explore old 66 anyway. Entering Kingman from the west, we were immediately greeted by a large, hot pink Historic 66 sign at Locomotive Park. It was literally a sign of things to come. Another nearby sign invites tourist to "Get your kicks in Kingman". Across the street the entire wall of the Mohave
Route 66 mural at Mohave Museum, by jkbrown
(yes, that's how it's spelled in Arizona) Museum is a Route 66 mural complete with a 60's era Corvette. The Route 66 Museum at the historic  Powerhouse visitor center is just beyond. A bit farther down the street is Mr. D's Route 66 Diner and the Mother Road Harley shop. And past that, the biggest Route 66 sign (anywhere?) is painted across a large silo, with the message "Welcome to Kingman, Heart of Historic Route 66."

Yes, they embrace their 66 heritage in a big way in Kingman. As we drove on into town, I saw many more businesses proudly displaying 66 shields and numerals: Nick's on 66 (restaurant), Club 66, Route 66 Business Center, Motel 66. After checking all that out, I was ready to traverse some highway.
Route 66 is big in Kingman, by jkbrown

Westbound on Oatman Highway (Route 66), by jkbrown

Get your snacks on Route 66 (in Oatman), by jkbrown

North and east of Kingman stretches the longest intact segment of the Mother Road in the country, about 100 miles joining such places as Hackberry, Peach Springs and Seligman. It still bears the number 66, now as a state highway. But my plan for the day was to head south and west down Oatman Highway, an original 50-odd mile section from pre-1952 alignments of Route 66.

The scene south of Kingman was very reminiscent of old west movies with the highway curving through a canyon defined by blocky dark brown stone walls. It soon leveled out, then ran arrow straight across the sandy and arid Sacramento Valley. Straight horizontally anyway; vertically it rose and fell with each wash it crossed, like a mini-roller coaster. Then we headed into the Black Mountains, following the old mining road that twists through canyons and climbs several short but steep grades. This tortuous road was selected in the 1920s when they laid out the original 66 routing because Oatman gold mining was then at it’s peak. I was glad I wasn't towing my fifth wheel trailer here.

After crossing Sitgreaves Pass, the road rapidly descended into the town of Oatman. Apparently this place had quite a reputation at one time. Like Tombstone and other old west mining towns, it is now a tourist attraction, though not as well known as some. Mock shootouts are staged in the main street several times daily. The Oatman Hotel is said to be haunted by the ghosts of Clark Gable and Carole Lombard, who spent their honeymoon night there and returned frequently. Besides numerous souvenir shops and eateries, Oatman’s other attraction is the friendly band of burros that roam the streets looking for handouts. Many shops sell bags of carrots for burro snacks. We arrived just as the 1 p.m. shootout was taking place. With the street full of gunslingers, burros and tourists, traffic came to a standstill. We parked and joined the crowd.

Back on the road a bit later, we drove several more miles of winding highway through mountain spires and canyons before the road leveled out again. The last few miles of Oatman Highway pass through the communities of Golden Shores and Topock. Their location along Topock Marsh and the Colorado River make them popular fishing and winter home locations. From there Route 66 crossed the Colorado and swung back to the northwest to Needles, but only a few original miles of that segment remain.

We returned to our Bullhead City camp to get ready for New Years Eve. We'll continue with our Mother Road travels one of these days.

 

 




Route 66: Lonely Planet Road Trip
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