Dot and Bill Bell are Mexican RV experts who have
taught and led seminars about camping in Mexico throughout Canada and
the US. Their website, is considered the most up-to-date source about camping and RVing south of the border.
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| having fun |
Semana Santa is celebrated in
much of the Catholic World as the week leading up to Easter. In Mexico
there are well known plays and processions, however for most Mexicans
this one-week holiday means a time for a family vacation and for many,
an opportunity to bake on the sandy beaches. It creates an explosion of
people that move from central towns and cities to the waves of the
Pacific in cars and buses to rent a bungalow or erect a tent on a beach
or campground.
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| view from la penita garden |
We are staying in the La
Penita RV Park in the town of La Penita de Jaltemba on the Pacific
Coast. It is a working Mexican town that acts as a supply base for
other towns that cater to mainly Mexican tourists. It's not glitzy or
glamorous and the nearest Senior Frogs or McDonalds is 40 miles south
in Puerto Vallarta -- a culture away. The population of La Penita and
the neighboring communities is only a paltry 20,000.
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| view of entrance from office |
All things change during
Semana Santa. The population explodes and every bungalow and available
room is rented for top drawer prices. A room in a local hotel that
normally rents for $15 per person now rents for $45. Food prices in
restaurants increase and everyone that has something to sell is on the
beaches and streets selling it. Musical groups invade the streets and
restaurants, some with a xylophone, large stand up bass, horns or
drums. As the population and vendors ranks swell, so do the aromas,
conflicting sounds and bustle of celebrating families throughout the
streets.
Most of the Norte Americanos have returned to their
homes and only a small handful of expats and late returnees linger. It
is a Mexican holiday feared by the snowbird and RVer alike. There were
only five RVs in this particular park at the beginning of the
celebration. In February there were 100.
George Aceves, owner of the Hotel California believes
that it is the increase in music, noise and traffic that drive the
"older" RVers and snowbirds home. "They just can't take it," he says as
we share a coffee on the main street. And I agree that the average
gringo tourist just doesn't get the joy of Semana Santa. To them, the
noises are annoying, the crowds inconvenient and the traffic horrible.
And while Semana Santa is that, it is also the celebration of all
things Mexican. Faith. Family. Friends. Culture.
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| jutine and memo |
This particular holiday, our
family was determined to celebrate Semana Santa together. Our oldest
daughter Justine and her "novio" Memo arrived by bus from Mexico City
and our son Adam flew in with friends Brittany and Mick from Vancouver.
Our youngest daughter Dylan worked hard at school so she could
celebrate with her older siblings. We expanded from three people to
eight; from one RV to two-plus tents. We were all excited and
anticipated the joy of eating, drinking and laughing together until
dawn and then until dawn again
As we waited for Justine and Memo to arrive the day
before Semana Santa began, we counted the busses zooming by. They
increased tenfold or more from the regular season; old Dina busses
spewing diesel fumes to sleek new ultra modern buses for the discerning
traveler. The traffic was a steady stream of vehicles; supply trucks,
busses, cars with luggage racks filled to the brim and the old faithful
pickups with families crammed in the cab and the box filled to capacity.
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| highway traffic |
The traffic increased steadily
over the next few days and the RV park filled up. Those five RVs with a
population of 10 are now surrounded by tents and 1,000 Mexicans. Today,
April, 13th, is the busiest day and likely 300 to 500 more folks will
be squeezed into the campsite so they too can enjoy the Mexican
coastline. Whole families meet and camp together for a week, some
traveling for days from throughout Mexico and the United States just to
get here to be with their sisters and brothers, aunts and uncles and if
they are lucky, a grandparent or two.
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| banda on the beach |
It's wonderful! You can't walk
two minutes without a "Buenos Dias" or hello. The aroma of various
Mexican cuisines is non-stop. A few old grandfathers congregate under
some palm trees and drink tequila or beer and talk about old times. The
young Mexican men play volleyball as bikini clad women chat under sun
tarps and ignore their preening. There are babies and children
everywhere -- crying, laughing giggling and toddling.
Music is constant from eight in the morning to eight
at night with a variety of genres from rap, hip hop to mariachi and
banda -- a Mexican country music. It continues but with lower volumes
late into the evening as the young men and women congregate in an out
of the way spot to flirt, chat and drink Coronas away from the prying
eyes of their parents.
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| on the beach |
The RV park caters to Mexicans
during these days. Traffic is so bad now that most folks don't want to
go to town -- including the Mexicans. The park brings vendors to the
campground; beautiful fresh vegetables are sold from the back of a
pick-up; a local rotisserie chicken restaurant delivers; a fruit stand
is a permanent fixture to the beach and a restaurant serving tacos and
burgers operates behind the office. The "clubhouse" in gringo season is
now converted to a small store and video game arcade.
The town is jammed to the limit but more people will
arrive the day before good Friday. The beer store has run out of the
regular sized beer. They only have "Chico's" or half bottles left. The
streets are lined with Mexicans of all ages buying trinkets and
t-shirts to carry home. Hotels wear signs "No Hay Vacantes" -- No room
at the inn.
But there is always room for more people at the beach. After all, this is Semana Santa.
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Traveler's
Guide to Mexican Camping
Headed to Mexico? Make this your guide. Authors
Mike and Terri Church cover everything you need to know to RV in this
inexpensive, fascinating land. More than 250 campgrounds listed, too! |
Mexico
By RV
Have you ever wondered what it would be like
to stay on one of the pristine beaches pictured in all the Mexico travel
books, or explore the historic Colonial regions and visit the ancient
ruin sites. |
Frommer's
Mexico 2005
Everything a visitor to Mexico needs
to know about spending time in the country is here. This is not a camping
guide, but anyone who plans to head south will find it a wealth of necessary
information. |
