Red - US70/I10, green - our route

With winter just around the corner and chill winds blowing in eastern New Mexico, Timmy and I decided that further adventures on Route 66 could wait. U.S. 70 was not far from Tucumcari and it would take us in the right direction -- southwest. I didn't know what we'd find, except probably some craziness in Roswell, but we found much more. What other US highway takes you from the Stone Age to the Space Age in 200 miles?

Originally linking the North Carolina coast to Los Angeles, U.S. 70 went through places like Memphis and Phoenix, connecting many smaller cities along the way. In parts of California and Arizona it was co-routed with U.S. 60. The highway now terminates at the eastern Arizona mining town of Globe.

We picked up U.S. 70 in Clovis. I knew the name from my interest in archeology. The 13,000 year old Clovis Culture is named for unique stone spear points, first found near there. So as we headed into town, I was watching for signs like "Home of the Earliest Americans." But I saw no reference to its claim-to-fame anywhere.

Clovis was larger than I expected, and to me it seemed all business, that being railroads and farming. But the city's web site touts the Clovis point connection and lists it as "the place where Buddy Holly recorded his hit 'Peggy Sue.'" Before leaving town, we stopped at a park so Timmy could romp and roll in the lush green grass.

Wooly mammoth at Blackwater Draw Museum, by jkbrown

About 10 or 12 miles down U.S. 70 as we passed a rest stop, a building bearing the silhouette of a wooly mammoth caught my eye. I immediately doubled back, easily done on the 4-lane divided highway. It turned out to be the Blackwater Draw Museum, named for the dig where the first Clovis points were found in 1932, just a few miles away. The museum is modest in size, but excellent. It's a must stop if you have an interest in paleontology or early cultures. The rest area has lots of parking, picnic tables, and you can even stay overnight in your RV.

Back on the road we soon passed through Portales and a little farther on tiny Elida, "The Bight Spot of New Mexico." Then it was all open range, rough and arid. The highway was in excellent condition, still 4 lanes as it was all the way to Las Cruces. U.S. 70 in New Mexico is an attractive alternate to the interstate routes. It's in better shape than some, cuts diagonally across the state and there were far fewer big trucks blowing by us.

Alien autopsy movie props at UFO Museum, Roswell, by jkbrown

Off to the west the Capitan Mountains dominated the horizon. They are also a visible indicator that you are entering UFO territory, since the famous (infamous?) Roswell crash site is at the foot of Capitan Peak. The highway gradually descends into the Pecos Valley, its riverbed highlighted by dense orange-gold stands of brushy tamarisk.

Closer to Roswell the billboard advertising the Crash Site Café sets the stage, but the city welcomes you to the "Dairy Capital of Southeast New Mexico." We checked into one of several RV parks in Roswell and next day set out to see the sights.

Alien rider in store window, Roswell, by jkbrown

Our first stop was the International UFO Museum and Research Center, located in the heart of downtown. Surrounded by other UFO and alien curio shops, the museum resides in a converted movie theatre. For the curious, it's fun, while those with a taste for conspiracy theories will find plenty to bolster their case. The museum parking lot is posted UFO PARKING ONLY, and the streetlamps all have alien eyes. Only in Roswell.

But the city has other attractions. For many years it was the home of Robert Goddard, the world's first rocket scientist. The Goddard display at the Roswell Museum and Art Center honors their space age pioneer. The museum also holds a nice collection of southwest art and historical artifacts.

After two museums, we were ready for some nature; Roswell has that too. A

Snow geese at Bitter Lake Refuge near Roswell, by jkbrown

few miles east of town along the Pecos, the Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge is a globally important bird migration area. We saw thousands of snow geese, large groups of sandhill cranes, several raptors, and numerous wading birds. An eight mile drive around the refuge provides access to many nature trails, viewing stations and blinds. Bring your binoculars.

A little farther on at Bottomless Lakes State Park you'll find camping, including RV accommodations, fishing and even scuba diving -- in the desert! The lakes are deep sink holes, the deepest over 80 feet.

But U.S. 70 beckoned. In our next column we'll meet some colorful characters from the old west and visit the International Space Hall of Fame.

Route 66: Lonely Planet Road Trip Get your RV kicks on Route 66. Most of it is easily negotiated by RVs of all sizes. This pocket-sized book is crammed full of useful information plus maps and more.	Blue Highways Join William Least Heat-Moon on his 13,000-mile journey along the back roads of America. First published in 1982, the author’s account of his journey has become a classic, an inspiration to all who love to travel the back roads of America.	The New Roadside America This is it! The guide to goofy America. Learn what’s along the back roads – giant statues, huge balls of twice, flying pigs, live rattlesnakes, muffler men, mermaids and much more.