As the colder weather sets in, many of us in the Northern climes need to prepare our RVs for the winter, in a ritual we call Winterization. Here are a few tips to keep in mind while doing this unpleasant, end of camping season task.

SAFETY NOTE: In order to prevent damage to the RV from freezing, be sure to follow the manufacturer's winterization instructions. If you're not comfortable with winterizing the plumbing in your coach, leave it to an RV service professional.

The primary reason to winterize is to protect the plumbing system from freeze damage. As water freezes and thaws, it expands with amazing force, destroying whatever confines it. Concrete highways frequently break apart due to freezing water: our little plastic pipes and appliances don't have a chance.

It is common to use RV antifreeze to winterize an RV. That's fine, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First, I don't like to put antifreeze in the fresh water tank. It's quite difficult to get the antifreeze smell and taste out of the tank later on. I, of course, make sure the tank is completely emptied, then I hook a hose up to the pump intake to suck the antifreeze out of the bottle, or use a winterization kit. Also, make sure your holding tanks are empty. If not, take it to a facility and empty and flush them prior to winterization.

SAFETY NOTE: ONLY use RV plumbing system antifreeze to winterize your piping. This antifreeze is non-toxic and designed for this purpose. Automotive antifreeze contains Ethylene Glycol -- toxic to humans and pets -- as well as other chemical agents in the mix.

Every RV has a city water inlet. Unless you have hooked up to this to blow out your pipes with an air compressor, there will still be water in that line. To get the antifreeze into this pipe and fitting, make sure the rest of the system has been winterized with antifreeze. Bleed pressure off the system by turning off the pump and opening a faucet until no more antifreeze comes out. Go outside to the city water inlet, and, using a finger or small tool, hold the backflow valve open, and have someone turn the pump on briefly, until antifreeze comes out. Failure to relieve the pressure from the system prior to manually opening the city water valve will cause the o-ring to separate, requiring the valve to be removed from the RV and repairs to be made.

Some coaches have washer/dryers, icemakers, water filters, and so on. These, and the piping to them, need to be winterized. This can be a complicated process. Again, follow the manufacturers instructions for winterizing these appliances refer the process to an RV service shop if you're at all uncomfortable with the process.

Make sure that every drain has antifreeze in the P-trap (Don't forget the washer/dryer drain!) As you run the faucets, some will get in there, but pour a little extra in when you're done. The toilet should have enough in it once flushed through with antifreeze.

In addition to plumbing, there are a few other things that should be done for winter storage. Remove all foodstuffs from the rig.. most canned or bottled stuff will freeze, and the rest is a welcome resource for mice, chipmunks, rats, etc. Clean the refrigerator thoroughly, and leave it cracked open. This helps prevent mildew. Also, clean the whole rig, inside and out, and make sure everything is dry inside. I like to leave the roof vents open a crack.. which is another good reason to have vent covers installed. With the heating of the sun, and cooling, especially in late winter or early spring, condensation can form on the walls and other surfaces. Keeping the vents open allows for air flow to help dry things out. Some folks put dehumidifiers in their stored rigs, which is fine, but it should be monitored regularly.

I am asked often about moth balls. I think they're a good idea if you can stand the smell, and provided that you remove them all when opening up in the spring. They'll help keep the spiders and other insects down to a minimum. Some folks say they help keep mice and other rodents away, but I can't confirm that. I still emphasize that the moth balls should be removed from the rig, especially gas burning appliances in the spring. A health and fire hazard can result if left in place.

Fall is also a good time to clean and examine the roof for sealant wear or other damage, and repair it. The seams get tested during the winter and the spring thaw, so renewing them now will help ensure theywithstand the winter and the upcoming season. It's also a good time to examine doors and windows for proper seal, and make repairs as necessary. Slide outs and their seals should also be cleaned and examined, and slide out seal treatment applied. The mechanism should be lubricated also, to help protect it.

Engine and generator service should be done prior to winter storage. I always recommend that people should run their fuel (gas or diesel) down low towards the end of the season, then before storage, add fuel additive to the tank and fill it up, then run the engines long enough to get the fuel and additive into them. Gasoline varnishes over time which can adversely affect the operation of the engines. Diesel fuel can suffer biological growth with storage, and will gel in the cold. Your owner's manuals will have seasonal storage recommendations for your specific equipment. To prevent such problems, Onan recommends running generators at a minimum of 50 percent capacity (for example, 2000-watts, or one air conditioner for a 4000-watt set) for two hours at least once every four weeks. A long two-hour exercise period is preferable to several short periods.

Tires should be clean, and kept off the ground for storage. I put mine on boards, treat them with tire treatment, and cover them with tire covers. Make sure the recommended tire pressure is maintained.

Of course, the propane should be turned off. It is unnecessary to remove the connections, but covering the openings into fuel burning appliances may be in order. IF you cover them, MAKE SURE you remove the cover prior to operating the appliance in the spring. I had customer who had a furnace blow up a couple of years ago because they had plugged up the external openings on the furnace and forgot about it… until they ran it in the spring! I wasn't there when it went, but I understand that when it did, the noise and smoke had the family bailing out of the unit like rats in a sinking ship. Fortunately, no extensive damage was done, and more importantly, no injuries.

The RV battery is another important item to look at. If you are storing your RV without leaving electrical power hooked up to it for charging, the batteries need to be removed and stored inside a warm area, up off the floor. The reason for this is the batteries will not freeze if they're charged, but once discharged will freeze and could burst. At the least, the plates will be damaged and the battery's operation will be reduced. If you plan on using the coach during the winter, just keep it plugged in, and check the water in the batteries at least monthly. This also makes it easier to start the coach for monthly checks.

Winterizing is another small duty of RV ownership, but if done well, will help make your unit ready to start another great camping season in the spring! Until next time, I’ll see you on the highway!

Trailer Life's RV Repair & Maintenance Manual RV Repair and Maintenance Manual is the most popular resource for owners who prefer to work on their own RVs.	Woodall's RV Owner's Handbook Learn how to perform preventative maintenance and repairs on your RV from RV technical guru Gary Bunzer.	RVers Guide to Solar Battery Charging RVers who yearn for independence from generators and RV park hookups will find this an essential guide to selecting, buying and using a solar electric system.