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Comments for When to replace tires? Can you drive on one “dual”?

  • I had this happen to me in Nevada, miles from any service. I had to drive about 90 miles at 30 MPH. I had no choice but to replace both tires because I could not get the original size. I got around the problem of not being able to change all the tires due to the dealer only having two. I took the front tires and had them put on the rear and put the new tires on the front. I kept the tire that had carried the load alone on the top as a spare until I got home. Then I changed out the rear tires so that all were the same. I discovered that the other side inner rear tire was close to failing. It was the inner tire that failed in Nevada.

  • Roger,

    this brings up an interesting companion concern: What risk is there when LEVELING (not traveling) to use only one leveling ramp?

    Yes, it’s a 100% overload, but it’s static. Is this a case of “use caution”, or “never do this”? The reason for asking is that in smaller motorhomes, carrying four leveling ramps is impractical.

    G.

    • I have a smaller (24′) Class-C myself. I carry 3 ramps. This would allow me to support both of my rear duals with two and have one extra for the front. I haven’t run into a situation where I couldn’t get “level enough” to have my refrig within the 1 bubble range on the bulls-eye level I use. Yes you might need 4 if the rear was that low but if carrying 4 ramps is a problem I would suggest you need to find a more level location.
      While the 100% load is static and isn’t likely to do any damage it is imperative that any ramp system you use is both wide enough and long enough to support 100% of the contact area of the tire. On my RV Tire Blog I have some pictures to help you understand the area that needs to be supported.
      http://www.rvtiresafety.net/2012/11/long-term-parking.html

  • To Many RVers don’t have a clue about TIRES or TIRE Safety. Also, to many RVers tend to overload their RV’s and don’t realize it.

    RV manufacturers usually put on the cheapest tires they can get their hands on. Some don’t even check the year of manufacture, just that they have a stockpile of Tires, so get rid of them. Manufacturers do very little when it comes to safety. Tires are something all RVers need to check before buying or driving off the dealers lot. If the tires on a NEW RV are 5 years or more hold. Have the dealer replace them with new, or walk away!

    Many RVers don’t realize they need to have a 20 to 30 percent cushion on the tire weight loading. Many RV’s don’t even have a 10 percent cushion, which is very dangerous when going down the road.

    Also, buy a TPMS for your RIG. I have a 10 tire system on mine and it is the best $500 I have ever spent. A TPMS will keep you informed what is going on with your Trailer Tires and with your Tow Vehicle as well.

    BE ANAL ABOUT YOUR TIRES. Learn the signs of potential Tire Failure!

  • David. Sorry, you had problems but you did the right thing. Do you run a TPMS? Always knowing you have enough air can eliminate one of the two major reasons for tire failure. That being Run Low Flex Failure. The other major reason for failures is belt separations. These, however, can many times be avoided by not overloading or over speeding your tires. Covering them to keep out of the heat from the Sun and to do a complete inspection as outlined in this post. http://www.rvtiresafety.net/2014/08/how-do-i-inspect-my-tires.html

  • I just had a “mechanic” tell me not to switch my front tires, left to right. He said they would be running backwards to what they have been running and it would wreck them.
    REALLY?

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